Postcards from Scotland, Part Four – Oban to Glencoe

The drive from Oban to Glencoe is just over an hour, but it packs a lot in. The weather that day was mostly rain, low clouds, and fog that hid more than it revealed. Still, we made the most of it, with two castle stops and Glencoe waiting at the end of the road.

Dunstaffnage Castle

Our first stop was Dunstaffnage Castle, just outside Oban. I didn’t know much about it going in, which made the discovery even better. As we started reading the placards, I realized it was another Campbell castle.

Dunstaffnage is one of the oldest stone castles in Scotland, built in the 13th century and long associated with Clan Campbell. The castle itself was interesting, but what stayed with me most—especially in hindsight—was the small chapel ruin tucked away in the woods.

Exploring the chapel in the misty rain was quietly magical. We had the place entirely to ourselves. Damp leaves underfoot, soft light, stone walls darkened by age and weather. Moody, peaceful, and unhurried. Looking back, it was one of my favorite moments of the trip.

Castle Stalker

From there, we made a brief stop at Castle Stalker. Unlike Dunstaffnage, this one was viewed from an overlook across the loch, with the castle sitting on its tiny island. It’s a striking sight, even at a distance.

Castle Stalker dates back to the 14th century and has passed through several clans over the centuries, including—you guessed it—the Campbells. I would have loved to get closer, but even from the roadside, it felt impressive.

Arriving in Glencoe

By the time we reached Glencoe, the rain had settled back in. We found food first—fish and chips again—and then attempted to check into our B&B. We were too early, so we headed to the Glencoe Visitor Centre instead.

It turned out to be a perfect detour. The views alone were worth the stop, even with clouds hanging low over the mountains. The exhibits helped orient us to the area, both geographically and historically, and the café provided much-needed chai tea and cake. Small comforts matter on rainy days.

Eventually, it was time to check in. For the next two nights, we stayed at a small B&B. Our hostess was warm and welcoming. Her husband…less so, at least at first. A bit of a fussy curmudgeon. They did have a cat, though, Smokey, a 16-year-old, friendly sweetheart, who immediately won me over.

That night, the mountains stayed mostly hidden, wrapped in fog and cloud. The few glimpses we did get were spectacular enough to make me hopeful for better weather.

Glencoe

The next day was all about Glencoe. We drove the valley, about 12 miles down and back, stopping constantly for photos. Rain came and went, but the landscape was incredible. It’s hard to put into words how beautiful it is.

One highlight was taking the chairlift at Glencoe Mountain Resort. It was freezing at the top, but the rain held off, and the views were worth every shiver.

Majestic doesn’t quite cover it. When I (hopefully) return to Scotland, Glencoe is a place I want to spend more time; different weather, different light, no rushing from stop to stop. It deserves to be studied, not skimmed.

Gear Notes

Rain was a constant companion for these two days. I photographed everything with my Canon R6 and 24–105mm, and briefly broke out my Peak Design Travel Tripod near the end of the day in Glencoe. The Peak Design Outdoor Backpack 25L handled wet weather well and kept everything accessible.

As with the rest of the trip, I backed images up to my iPad and did all detailed editing later at home, merging exposure brackets in Lightroom Classic, refining in Radiant Photo, and finishing where needed in Photoshop.

Next Up

Next, we continue deeper into the Highlands, with the road leading toward the Isle of Skye. In case you missed parts one through three, read them here:

• Edinburgh to Oban (Part 3)
• Outlander Day Trip (Part 2)
• Edinburgh (Part 1)