Postcards from Scotland, Part Three – Edinburgh to Oban

Leaving Edinburgh meant a big first: driving on the left side of the road. I won’t pretend I wasn’t nervous, but I was also determined. By the end of the day, I’d safely gotten my mom and myself from Edinburgh to Oban, with three castles along the way. Exhausting? Yes. Worth it? Absolutely.

An Early Start

The day started earlier than planned. A 6 a.m. alarm, followed by a call from the hotel front desk telling us our taxi was already waiting. We had scheduled it for 7:30. Between the time change and the rush, we assumed we’d overslept. We grabbed our bags and headed out. No coffee, no breakfast, and a little frazzled.

As it turned out, the hotel had gotten the timing wrong, and we ended up picking up our rental car about an hour early. Not ideal, but we rolled with it. Then came the real test: pulling onto the road and driving on the left. It was easier than I expected, but not easy. It took real concentration, and by the end of the day, I was mentally spent. Still, I did it. I got us there safely, and that felt like a win.

Midhope Castle — Lallybroch

Our first stop of the day was Midhope Castle, better known to Outlander fans as Lallybroch. It wasn’t open yet, but we could see it through the gate, and that was enough. I was so glad we made the stop. Even from a distance, it felt special.

From there, we went in search of breakfast and coffee. Urgently. We found a small takeaway run by a man from Kurdistan and shared an omelet and strong coffee. Exactly what we needed before heading back onto the road.

Inveraray Castle

Next up was Inveraray Castle, the working home of the Duke of Argyll and the seat of Clan Campbell. This stop carried extra meaning for us. My mom’s maiden name is Campbell, making me Clan Campbell as well. Clan Campbell is one of the largest clans in the world, with millions of people who trace their roots back here, often referring to the Duke of Argyll as “cousin” and Inveraray as our ancestral home.

The castle itself is magnificent. While the interior was impressive, I found myself more drawn to the grounds. Rain came and went in passing squalls, but when it cleared, the gardens opened up under soft light and patches of blue sky. We slowed our pace, taking it all in. As we made our way back toward the car park, the rain returned, and we moved on.

Kilchurn Castle

About halfway between Inveraray and Oban, we stopped at a viewpoint overlooking Kilchurn Castle. Abandoned and dramatic, it sits at the edge of Loch Awe, weathered and imposing. It’s officially inaccessible, though it certainly looked like people had found their way out there. We walked just far enough to get a few photos before the weather shifted again. The rain was coming, and we didn’t linger.

Arriving in Oban

We reached Oban just as it started to get dark, and just as the rain picked up again. The road directly in front of our hotel was under construction and inaccessible. Between the low light, headlights, rain, and nowhere obvious to pull over, I got a bit frazzled. Eventually, we found the car park and walked the thankfully short distance to the hotel. We stayed at the Perle Oban Hotel, which was lovely and right on the harbor in the heart of town.

Dinner was simple and perfect: fish and chips, plus mac and cheese, which appears on far more menus than I expected. I had to try it at least once. Later, we settled into the hotel lounge with a wee dram to round out the day.

A Slower Day in Oban

If Edinburgh was constant motion, Oban was a reset. This coastal town, built around its harbor and distillery, moves at a gentler pace. The weather was spectacular: beautiful clouds and no rain until we were walking back from dinner.

Dunollie Castle

After breakfast, we took a long, meandering walk to the ruins of Dunollie Castle on the outskirts of town. The climb was worth it. The view from the top was expansive, and the history was fascinating.

We also met a local celebrity: a ginger-and-white long-haired cat named Howie. He belonged to a nearby neighbor but clearly preferred hanging out at the castle. He made me miss my boys back home, but it was a welcome kitty fix. We had a light lunch at the castle café: lentil and vegetable soup and lattes, then wandered the grounds.

Oban Distillery

Back in town, we browsed a few shops, dropped things at the hotel, and headed to the Oban Distillery for a tour. It was informative and fun, with plenty of Scotch to taste.

Dinner at Ee-Usk

As evening settled in, we walked along the harbor, watching the lights come on and reflections ripple across the water. Dinner at Ee-Usk (Gaelic for “fish”) was excellent. I had three enormous oysters. We shared a crab and langoustine cocktail, a fish plate with three different kinds of fish and vegetables, creamed leeks on the side, and sticky toffee pudding for dessert, which tasted like Christmas.

Gear Notes

I photographed both days with my Canon R6 and 24–105mm, with a few quick frames on the iPhone 17 Pro when angles or convenience mattered. The Peak Design Outdoor Backpack 25L carried everything comfortably, even on long walking days.

I backed everything up to my iPad while traveling and did all detailed processing later at home, merging exposure brackets in Lightroom Classic, refining in Radiant Photo, and occasionally finishing in Photoshop.

Next Up

In part four, we head deeper into the Highlands: Glencoe, shifting weather, and some of the most dramatic landscapes of the trip. In case you missed parts one and two, read them here:

• Edinburgh (Part 1)
• Outlander Day Trip (Part 2)